Engagement Rings

The diamond engagement ring is the symbol of everlasting love and commitment. In 1477, the tradition of giving a diamond ring as an engagement gift began when Archduke Maximilian of Austria gave one to Mary of Burgundy. At that time, diamonds were considered a charm that could enhance the love between husband and wife.

When buying a diamond engagement ring, some details to consider are the cut of the stone, the metal used in the ring, and the type of setting style you prefer. At INTA Gems & Diamonds we have an extensive variety of engagement ring settings that range from traditional styles, antique settings, elegant classic solitaire styles, and the most modern cutting-edge settings. We also offer custom design work that takes only 4-6 weeks to give our clients the exact ring of their dreams.

We recommend choosing the stone before deciding on a setting, as it is easier to match a stone to a ring than vice versa. Once you decide on a stone, though, you have to decide between various styles and details. The most traditional style for an engagement ring is a solitaire setting, which is classic and elegant. Solitaires put all the focus on the diamond. One of the most popular solitaire settings for the round brilliant cut is the Tiffany style six prong setting. However, antique styles are becoming increasingly popular, especially for diamonds with older cuts like asscher and cushion. Some antique rings have pavé diamonds or feature delicate filigree, miligrain, or hand engraving. Three stone settings are also popular as engagement rings as the three stones symbolize the past, present, and future of your relationship.

Anatomy of a Ring

There are different compositions to consider for each ring. The setting, which is located at the top and is the part that holds the diamond securely in place, is referred to as the head. The head is manufactured to fit the particular size and shape of the diamond that you choose. Some common setting styles include prong (which can come in three, four, and six prong), bezel, channel, pavé, and tension. And the band, also called the shank, is available in a variety of styles from the classic solitaire to more elaborate styles that are accented with diamonds or metalwork.

Prong Settings

The prongs are very thin wires of gold or platinum used to hold the diamond securely in place. Some prong settings set the diamond high, in order to add extra emphasis, the prongs are attached to the central setting of a ring, known as the head or basket. Each prong extends upward and outward from the head, arching over the diamond to form a secure grip. The ideal prong tapers to a rounded point. The prongs should be placed at the key points of the diamond, typically at four corners or at four, five or six points evenly spaced around the stone this diamond setting offers security without interfering with the stone's brilliance.

The prong setting can also be found in a few variations. One such variation, called the V-prong setting, functions on the same basic concept, but it uses prongs which, when viewed from above, appear to be curved into a V-shape. The right angle of the wire is cut to allow the corner of the gem to rest and be held by the wire. Prongs are generally used for diamond shapes with points such as the corners of the square princess cut or the tip of the pear shaped diamond. The v-prong provides additional protection to the points which are often thin, fragile, and subject to chipping if left exposed.

Another variation on the prong setting is called the common prong. Here, the metal wire is grooved at the top, and is used to hold two gemstones by their side (girdle). This technique is used to give a close side-by-side gemstone relationship without the metallic interference of too many prongs.

Bezel Setting

A bezel setting is a collar of precious metal that wraps around the diamond. The bezel is attached to the top of the ring and stands up above it, adding height and another dimension to the setting. Although solid bezels have a very traditional look, the bezel may be 'split' into two sections, arcing around just part of the diamond. This is called a half bezel. This simple change suddenly opens up the setting and gives it a totally modern look. The technique may also be used on a fancy cut diamond -- with an arc of precious metal around the wide curve of a pear shape and another, V-shaped section of precious metal embracing the narrow end.

Channel Setting

Channel setting is also used to set round diamonds. Channel setting offers a sleek, elegant appearance, though the end result is a very different look. Setting round diamonds into channels leaves small spaces closest to the metal bars of the channel. By choosing round diamonds, the designer creates a clean line of stones, yet one with greater brilliance than is possible with baguettes. This also offers a less restrained look, and may be more suitable when a ring has a round center stone. Channel setting is also used when there is no center stone at all. The placement of baguettes around an entire band is a beautiful choice for a wedding band, one that goes well with a matching ring set with a diamond solitaire.

Channel setting protects the diamonds extremely well. None of the edges are exposed, and so they are not subject to hard knocks or general wear and tear. A variation of the channel set is called the bar channel. Here, the metal plates rise to top level of the stone, and so are visible between the stones. This gives a slightly different visual effect, and can be very striking if the contrast between the metal and the stone is significant.

Pavé Setting

When the surface of a ring appears to be covered with tiny diamonds, the technique is called pavé which means paved. The surface looks a bit like a very pretty street paved with cobblestones, giving it its unique name. Tiny diamonds are placed in small holes that have been drilled out of the ring shank. On a band that does not taper across the top, each diamond should be exactly the same size. The diamonds are placed in rows, but in such a way that they fill as much of the space of the surface as is possible without actual touching. The more precisely cut the diamonds, the better the final overall appearance of the ring.

Each tiny diamond, weighing just a few points, is fully cut with 58 facets. Don’t underestimate the significance of all these tiny diamonds. Though small in size, each stone contributes to the overall, shimmering look. After it is positioned in its hole, tiny bits of metal from the surface of the shank are pushed over the edge of the diamond, forming tiny beads to hold the stone in place. Pavé set diamonds is a technique that only patient and extremely talented master jewelry setters are able to set. The cost of a pavé-set diamond ring depends on the hand setting of the diamonds. In fact, the labor is often much more a determinant of price than the actual cost of the diamonds and the gold. To evaluate a ring that is pavé set, look at the overall design. To determine if a pavé setting is well-designed and well-made, the overall appearance of all the pavé set diamonds should blend in to appear like glistening cobblestones. If a section of the ring is pavé-set, with certain areas tapering to a point, the diamonds should diminish in size as the pavé area narrows. This requires the most precise selection of diamonds.

Bead Setting

Beading is a similar technique; however, the diamonds are spaced slightly apart, showing more of the gold work as a type of design. Bead settings are typically one row of diamonds, whereas pave has multiple rows. The beads are larger and more prominent in size; giving jewelry crafters the option of engraving or decorating these beads. The diamonds may also be slightly larger in size. In fact, the variation in the diamond stone size and the beadwork size gives the designer the ability to create completely different designs.

Cluster Setting

The cluster setting is another variation of settings for a ring with a number of smaller diamonds. There are cluster rings with the stones arranged to appear like a flower, or those with stones arranged in an abstract manner.

Cluster rings tend to be multi-level, with considerable height above the hand. This makes cluster rings perfect fashion rings. The arrangement of stones can be scattered quite openly giving off an airy look, or it may be more tightly arranged. One usually chooses based on personal preference, although the shape of the finger can be a determining factor. The openwork design is the perfect choice for those that want to lengthen the look of their fingers. In contrast, a more closed design draws the eye toward the hand.

Flush Setting

One of the most subtle diamonds setting technique is the flush setting. Stones are sunk into the mounting until they are nearly level or flush with the surface. Only the table of the stone and a bit of the upper pavilion facets is visible. Even though this technique makes it difficult for the diamond to reflect and capture light, it has still become quite popular. It's a very subtle look, and appeals to women who like the concept of having tiny, glittering bits of light twinkling like stars in the sky.

The flush setting can also be used for larger stones. Not only does flush setting offer great protection for the diamond, but the modern look keeps one looking fashionable.

Ballerina Setting

Ballerina setting is one of the classic multi-stone ring designs that is a beautiful setting of tapered baguettes which flow around a center stone placing large emphasis on the center stone. This effect resembles the 'tutu' (short flared skirt worn by ballet dancers) giving it the name ballerina. There are ballerina rings, in which baguettes are set in an undulating curve, giving it a greater resemblance to the tutu skirt of a ballerina dancer.

Ring Budget

The last step every engagement ring consumer should consider when purchasing an engagement ring, is the budget and pay plan.Rings range in price, but there should be a ring that fits every budget and taste. Keep in mind that the conventional budget for an engagement ring is usually 2-3 months salary. Every engagement ring buyer should consider their financial comfort level because purchasing the engagement ring should not burn a huge hole in a person’s wallet! At INTA Gems & Diamonds, we sell an exceptional collection of engagement ring settings that compliment every unique individual’s personal preference.We offer traditional solitaire, three-stone, pavé, antique, and contemporary settings.For more information, feel free to drop by our store that is located in the heart of the Downtown Los Angeles Diamond and Jewelry District. Our graduate gemologists and friendly trained staff are happy to answer all your questions. We hope to see you soon!